Synthetic Emulsifiers

Natural Ingredients

Synthetic Ingredients

Emulsifier: one that emulsifies; especially a surface-active agent (as a soap) promoting the formation and stabilization of an emulsion

Emulsifiers modify the interface between water and oils, allowing tiny blobs of oils and waxes (micelles) to float freely in water (or vice versa) without merging together and separating out. Emulsifiers can have mild skin & severe eye irritant. They can react with nitrites to form highly potent carcinogenic nitrosamines. Nitrosamines have been shown to readily penetrate the skin. Repeated skin applications of DEA-based detergents resulted in a major increase in the incidence of liver and kidney cancers. NTP (Federal National Toxicology Program) emphasized that not only is DEA readily absorbed through the skin, it also accumulates in organs such as the brain, where it can produce toxic effects.

acetylated lanolin alcohol: claimed to be a hypoallergenic, it is gives a smooth, velvety fell. Forms a protective coat on the skin's surface and prevents moisture loss. Extracted from sheep's wool. Used in eye shadows, skin moisturizers, talcum, suntan gels, hair grooming aids, colognes and bath soaps.

effects: no currently known adverse effects.

betaine: occurs in common beets and in many vegetables as well as animal substances. Used in resins, detergents, skin and hair conditioners.

effects: no known effects

carbomer: a synthetic compound with a high molecular weight cross linked polymer (plastic) of acrylic acid. Used to help thicken products.

effects: no known adverse effects

carboxymethyl cellulose: sodium. A synthetic gum used in bath preparations, beauty masks, hand creams, shampoos, and shaving creams. It is a barrier ingredient made from cotton by-products, and occurs as a white powder or in granules.

effects: it has been shown to cause cancer in animals when ingested, its toxicity on the skin is unknown.

cetearyl alcohol: mixture of fatty alcohols, consisting predominantly of cetyl and stearyl alcohols and is classified as a fatty alcohol. It is not really an "alcohol", such as rubbing alcohol, which would dry the skin, but it is an emulsifying wax, made by combining fatty alcohols from vegetable sources, such as coconut fatty alcohol. Used in hair tints, cleansing lotions, skin care preparation, shampoos, hair straightens, lipsticks, eye makeup, and foot powders just to name a few.

effects: may cause contact dermatitis and contact sensitivity in some individuals.

cocamidopropyl betaine (coco betaine): a semisynthetic compound derived from coconut oil and beets. Used in eye makeup remover, baby and adult shampoos.

effects: may cause scalp problems and facial or neck dermatitis. Also may cause eyelid rash.

cocamine: a semisynthetic compound derived from coconut oil obtained from the kernels of palm trees.

effects: can be contaminated with nitrosamines.

emulsifying wax: waxes that are treated so that they mix more easily. Created when a wax material (either a vegetable wax of some kind or a petroleum-based wax) is treated with a detergent (typically sodium dodecyl sulfate or polysorbates) to cause it to make oil and water bind together into a smooth emulsion. Usually followed by the initials NF.

effects: no known adverse effects.

ethyl acetate: a synthetic compound. Used in nail enamels and nail polish removers, also used in artificial fruit essence for perfumes. It has highly flammable vapor and is subject to solvent abuse.

effects: no know adverse effects.

glyceryl dioleate: the diester of glycerin and oleic acid (see both).

PEG Family: PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. This is a large family with a wide range of functions. Other uses include surfactants, emulsions stabilizers and often thickeners. It is a synthetic polymer that is combined with a variety of other molecules to produce a wide range of cosmetic materials. Higher numbers mean bigger molecules, usually resulting in a greater solubility in water.

effects: the PEG family is made using ethylene oxide (oxirane) which can form 1,4-dioxane, a carcinogen, as a by-product of manufacture.

PEG-100 stearate: PEG is an abbreviation for polyethylene glycol. PEG combined with stearic acid to form a water-soluble ester. Used to have a softening effect on the skin. Used in creams and lotions.

effects: the PEG family is made using ethylene oxide (oxirane) which can form 1,4-dioxane, a carcinogen, as a by-product of manufacture. CIR Expert Panel is considering new information to determine the safety assessment of this ingredient.

PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil: see Polyethylene glycol and castor oil.

polysorbate: a family of semisynthetic and synthetic compounds. Used in creams and lotions. Be aware of Polysorbate 60 and 80. These two have been associated with the contaminant 1,4 dioxane, known to cause cancer in animals.

effects: some polysorbates have been linked to irritation and sensitization.

sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS): a synthetic detergent derived from coconut oils. SLS is one of the most widely used ingredients in shampoos, cleansing lotions, foaming bath oils, toothpastes, and liquid soaps.

effects: see chemicals for more information.

sorbitan stearate: a semisynthetic and synthetic compound used in creams, lotions, antiperspirants, deodorants, and suntan lotions. Also a solubilizer of essential oils in water. Manufactured by reacting edible commercial stearic acid with sorbitol.

effects: may cause contact urticaria in some individuals.

stearyl alcohol: a semisynthetic and synthetic compound. A mixture of solid alcohols prepared from sperm whale oil. Used in cosmetic creams, and lubricants.

effects: may cause contact dermatitis and contact allergies in some individuals.

triethanolamine (TEA): a synthetic compound made from ammonia and ethylene oxide. Used in skin lotions, eye gels, moisturizing creams, shampoos, and soaps.

effects: see chemicals for more information.