Synthetic Emollients

Emollients are liquid substances which help prevent drying of the skin by providing a barrier to trans-epidermal water loss. These emollients are modern chemicals which are created through the usage of fossil fuels, under high pressure and with temperatures as high as 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit for a duration up to 12 to 14 hours. At these high temperatures, the vital ingredients in the product are often destroyed. These conditions are needed to split the natural vegetable oil molecules and create a new molecule not found in nature. This often requires carcinogenic catalysts or agents in the manufacturing process. New research shows that these industrial processes can cause the formation of trans-fatty acids or trans-isomers which have been linked to the creation of free radicals and prostaglandin inhibitors.

acetylated lanolin alcohol | butylene glycol | capric/caprylic triglyceride | ceteareth-2
ceteareth-20 | ceteareth-27 | cetearyl alcohol | cetearyl glucoside | cetearyl isononanoate
cetearyl octanoate | cetyl alcohol | cetyl esters | cetyl palmitate | coconut fatty acids
cyclomethicone | decyl oleate | dimethicone | disodium cocoamphodiacetate | emulsifying wax
fat alcohol (cetearyl alcohol) | fatty acids | glyceryl cocoate | glyceryl distearate | glyceryl stearate
potassium stearate | hydrogenated oils | isobutyl stearate | isopropyl myristate | isostearyl-isostearate
jojoba butter/wax (hydrogenated jojoba oil) | lauryl lactate | mineral oil | octyl palmitate
octyl dodecanol | oleth 2 | paraffin | petrolatum | squalane | stearic acid | stearyl alcohol

acetylated lanolin alcohol: sometimes known as "sheep alcohol," is a non-drying organic compound produced from lanolin, the fat of wool shearings, which has been reacted with acetic acid and a small amount of lye. Acetylated Lanolin is a clear, nongreasy liquid made by reacting lanolin with polyoxyethylenes; soluble in water, oils, and alcohol and repels water. Lanolin is a product of the oil glands of sheep and is considered a wax. Used in eyeshadows, skin moisruizers, tlacum, suntan gels, hair products, colognes, bath soaps, and baby powders.

effects: has antiallergenic tendencies. Lanolin can cause allergic contact skin rashes. Advertisers have promoted lanolin as being able to penetrate the skin better than other oils, although there is little scientific proof of this. The CIR Expert Panel is considering the safety of Acetulated Lanolin based on new information. There is still much debate over this ingredient.

butylene glycol: most resistant to high humidity, it retains scents and preserves against spoilage. It enhances the preservative activity of parabens.

effects: causes immediate severe stinging to the eye. If ingested can cause transient stimulation of the central nervous system, causeing depression, vomiting, drowsiness, coma, respiratory failure, and convulsions.

capric/caprylic triglyceride: semisynthetic compounds derived from coconut oil extracts and ethylene oxide. A mixture of the triester of glycerin with caprylic, capric, and stearic acids. Good spreading properties. Used in creams, lotions, and oil formulations.

effects: promotes penetration and does not leace visible traces of grease on the skin.

ceteareth-2: semisynthetic compounds obtained from saturated fatty acids and ethylene oxide. Has a high molecular mass which translate into having a greater solubility in water.

effects: ceteareth family is made using ethylene oxide which can form 1,4-dioxane, a carcinogen, as a by-product of manufacturing.

ceteareth-20: semisynthetic compounds obtained from fatty acids and ethylene oxide. A good solubilizing agent. Used in hair conditioners and dyes, body and hand preperations, moisturizers.

effects: DIR Expert Panel cautioned that this ingredient enhances skin absorption of drugs and to take care when using this ingredient in formulations.

ceteareth-27: semisynthetic compounds obtained from fatty acids and ethylene oxide. Used as an antifoam ingredient and lubricant. Distilled from a combination of cetyl alcohol made from spermaceti. Spermaceti is derived as a wax from the head of the sperm whale.

effects: spermaceti can becom rancid and cause irritations.

cetearyl alcohol: mixture of fatty alcohols, consisting predominantly of cetyl and stearyl alcohols and is classified as a fatty alcohol. It is not really an "alcohol", such as rubbing alcohol, which would dry the skin, but it is an emulsifying wax, made by combining fatty alcohols from vegetable sources, such as coconut fatty alcohol. Used in hair tints, cleansing lotions, skin care preperation, shampoos, hair straighteners, lipsticks, eye makeup, and foot powders just to name a few.

effects: may cause contact dermatitis and contact sensitivity in some individuals.

cetearly glucoside: semisynthetic compound derived from fatty acids and sugars. Made from cetearyl alcohol and glucose. Used in fragrances, cleansers, and body preperations.

effects: no currently known adverse effects.

cetearyl isononanoate: semisynthetic compound derived from fatty acids.

effects: no currently known adverse effects.

cetearyl octanoate: semisynthetic compound derived from fatty acids. Can be derived from palm kernel or coconut derivative. Has a high degree of water repellency. Caprylic acid is the common name for the eight-carbon straight chain fatty acid known by the systematic name octanoic acid. Used in moisturizers.

effects: caprylic acid is known to have anti-fungal properties.

cetyl alcohol: produced from palm oil or spermaceti. Spermaceti is derived as a wax from the head of the sperm whale. It is also found in coconut and other vegetable oils. Used in baby lotion, deodorants, creams, foundations, lotions, lipsticks, shampoos.

effects: can cause hives. Allergic reactions have been reported.

cetyl esters: semisynthetic compounds derived from a fatty acid. Used to thicken and stabilize.

effects: contains cetyl palmitate, some palmitates have been linked to contact dermatitis.

cetyl palmitate: same chemical structure as spermaceti. Spermaceti is derived as a wax from the head of the sperm whale. Used to thicken and stabilize.

effects: some palmitates have been linked to contact dermatitis.

coconut fatty acids: is a diethanolamide made by reacting fatty acids in coconut oils with diethanolamine. Used as a foaming agent in shampoos, hand soaps, and in cosmetics.

effects: can cause allergic reactions.

cyclomethicone: a synthetic silicone oil. Used to reduce the greasy feel of cosmetics.

effects: no known adverse effects.

decyl oleate: semisynthetic compound derived from fatty acids. Good penetrating properties and facilitates spreadability. Used in hand creams, hair colorings, moisturizers, makeup, ans skin conditioners.

effects: CIR Expert Panel is considering new information to determine the final safety assessment of this incredient.

dimethicone: a form of silicone used to give products lubricety, slip and good feel. Promotes spredeadability.. Used in ointment base ingredients.

effects: low toxicity. Used as a skin protectant.

disodium cocoamphodiacetate: a synthetic compound derived from fatty acids obtained from coconut oil.
Function: Surfactant

effects: no currently known adverse effects.

emulsifying wax: waxes that are treated so that they mix more easily. Created when a wax material (either a vegetable wax of some kind or a petroleum-based wax) is treated with a detergent (typically sodium dodecyl sulfate or polysorbates) to cause it to make oil and water bind together into a smooth emulsion. Usually followed by the intitiles NF.

effects: no currently known adverse effects.

fat alcohol (cetearyl alcohol): semi synthetic or synthetic compound. An emulsifying wax. A misture of fattey alcohols cetyl and stearyl. Used in hair tints, cleansing lotions, shampoos and more.

effects: CIR Expert Panel concludes this is a safe ingredient.

fatty acids: used in bubble baths and lipsticks, but mostly for detergentsand soap. One or any misture of liquid and solid acid, scapric, caprylic, lauric, myristic, oleic, palmitic, and stearic. With a combination with glycerin they form fat.

effects: no side effects.

glyceryl cocoate: semisynthetic compound derived from coconut oil extracted from the kernels of palm tress.

effects: glyceryl monoesters have been linked to contact dermatitis.

glyceryl distearate: a semisynthetic or synthetic compounmd made from glycerin and stearic acid. Used in moisturizers, cuticile softeners, eye lotions, shampoos.

effects: glyceryl esters have been linked to contact dermatitis.

glyceryl stearate: semisynthetic or synthetic compound. Used in skin conditioning ingredient. Used in makeup, lotions, powders, and creams.

effects: may cause skin allergies in some people.

potassium stearate: a semisynthetic compound made from animal or vegetable oils. Used in soaps.

effects: no known adverse effects.

hydrogenated oils: vegetable and animal and fish oils treated with hydrogen. The oils becomes partially converted from naturally polyunsaturated fats to saturated. Makes liquid oils solid.

effects: no known adverse effects.

isobutyl stearate: the ester of isobutyl alcohol and stearic acid. Used in waterproof coatings, plishes, face creams, rouges, soaps, and lubricants. Used as a skin conditioning ingredient.

effects: CIR Expert Panel concluded safe to use in cosmetics.

isopropyl myristate: a fatty compound derived from isopropyl alcohol and myristic acid. It is currently being removed from many products it is said to cause blackheads. Scientist are concerned that when isopropyl myristate is applied over large areas of the skin for long periods of time there will be a segnificant absorption of NDELA if the contaminant is present. (NDELS is a reaction product of di- or triethanolamine DEA or TEA)

effects: CIR Expert Panel is considering new information to determine the dafety of this ingredient.

isostearyl-isostearate: see stearyl alcholol.

jojoba butter/wax (hydrogenated jojoba oil): the wax is a semisolid fraction of jojoba oil. The butter is also obtained from jojoba oil.

effects: safe to use in cosmetics.

lauryl lactate: see lauric acid and lactic acid.

mineral oil: a white oil used in baby creams, baby lotions, cleansing creams, moisturizing creams and many other products. It is a mixture of refined liquid hydrocarbons derived from petroleum. Colorless, transparent, odorless, and tasteless. Stays on top of the skin and leaves a shiny protective surface.

effects: no known adverse effects.

octyl palmitate: a semisynthetic or sythetic compound. Used in makeup, lipsticks, and shaving creams.

effects: an acne promoting ingredient. Some palmitates have been linked to contact dermatitis.

octyl dodecanol: see stearyl alcohol.

oleth 2: clansing ingredients. There is limited data for this ingredient.

effects: no known adverse effects.

paraffin: used in oils, eyebrow pencils, lipsticks, protective creams, and mascaras. Also used to extract perfumes from flowers.

effects: harmless in its pure form, but the presence of impurities may give rise to irritations and eczema.

petrolatum: petroleum jelly. Used in many products. Used in creams, emollient creams, conditioning creams, wax depilatories, and more. It is a purified mixture of semisolid hydrocarbons from petroleum. Yellowish in collor, odorless and tasteless.

effects: can cause allergic kin reactions in the hypersensitive.

benefits: helps to soften and smooth the skin and is less expensive than other emollients.

squalane: obtained from the hydrogenation of shark-liver oil. Used in lubricating oil in cosmetics for skin and hair.

effects: CIR Expert Panel is considering new information to determine the safety of this ingredient.

stearic acid: a semisynthetic or synthetic compound. Used in deodorants and antiperspirants, liquid powders, foundation creams, hand creams, hand lotions, soaps and many other products. A white, waxy, natural fatty acid.

effects: linked to skin allergies.

stearyl alcohol: a semisynthetic or synthetic compound. A mixture of solid alcohols prepared from sperm whale oil. Usid in cosmetic creams, and lubricants.

effects: may cause contact dermatitis and contact allergies in some individuals.