Synthetic Colorants

The majority of the FDA-approved coloring agents for foods and personal care products are synthetic. Synthetic colors are mainly coal-tar derivatives made from chemical compounds which are made when coal is distilled. Besides being used in foods, dyes may be used in paints, cosmetics, clothes, inks, pesticides and medicines. Colorings found in cosmetic products known as iron oxides originated as minerals, but are often reacted with chemicals at high temperature to isolate and refine the material. There is still a great deal of controversy about the use of coal tar colors. Almost all these colors have been shown to cause cancer when injected into the skin of mice. Many people are allergic to coal tar colors.

Colorants can be listed as FD&C, D&C, and Ext. D&C. FD&C colors are approved for the use in food, drugs. and cosmetics. D&C colors may be used only in drugs and cosmetics, including colors that come into contact with the mucous membranes and those that are ingested. Three types of coloring matter used in cosmetics are inorganic, organic, and dyestuffs.
- Inorganic pigments are insoluble compounds based on metal ions, tend to have good stability, and are widely used in eye and face makeup.
- Organic pigments tend to be bright but offer less variety in shades.
- Dyestuffs are used primarily in toiletry products such as shampoos and lotions.

aluminum lakes | astaxanthin | azulene | canthaxanthin | carmine | sodium copper chlorophyllin (chlorophyll)
D&C colors (all) | FD&C colors (all) | iron oxides | titanium dioxide | ultramarine | zinc oxide

aluminum lakes: an organic pigment used as a color additive in cosmetics, especially eye shadows. Listed as carcinogenic, toxic and mutagenic. Lakes are a form of dyes that are water insoluble. They are more stable than dyes. They are Found in oils and fats or products that do not contain enough moisture to dissolve dyes. Found in hard candies, chewing gums, cake mixes and coated pills.

effects: FD&C Red No. 40 has been banned for human use in the USA. FD&C Red No. 3 has been known to cause allergic reactions, thyroid tumors and chromosomal damage. FD&C Yellow No. 5 cased allergic reactions, chromosomal damage, lymphocytic and thyroid tumors. Aluminum lake color D&C Red No. 3, 4 or 6 are also highly suspect.

astaxanthin: Astaxanthin extract iscarotenoid (carotene pigment) found in plants, algae, and fish, particularly salmon. It functions as an antioxidant. It has a strong ability to destroy unstable oxygen molecules (Source: International Journal for Vitamin and Nutrition Research, Volume 65, Issue 2, 1995, pages 79-86). Astaxanthin (asta-ZAN-thin) is the king of the carotenoid family.

benefits: preliminary research suggests that Astaxanthin may be able to prevent the oxidative damage to skin after exposure to UVA radiation (Source: Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, Eighth Edition, 2006, page 88).

azulene: a blue to greenish black hydrocarbon. Used as an antacid in cosmetics. A german chamomile derivative used in face and body creams, sunburn remedies, burn ointments, and bath salts. It has shown anti-inflammatory effects but the CIR expert panel concludes there is insufficient data to support the safety of this ingredient in cosmetic products.

benefits: In clinical studies Azulenes and bisabolol have been shown to exhibit dramatic anti-inflammatory effects and Chamazulene showed significant antioxidant protection.

canthaxanthin: a color additive derived from edible mushrooms, crustaceans, trout, salman, and tropical birds. It produces a pink color. It is a synthetic non-provitamin A carotinoid that is easily absorbed by fat. It is taken for the purpose of skin "tanning". It is not approved as a prescription.

effects: a report from Vanderbilt Universtiy cited that the frequency of adverse effects of this ingredient are unknown. Oral intake may cause loss of night vision since there is some evidence that high intakes of the substance leads to deposition on the retina.

carmine: a crimson pigment derived from the female Mexican and Central American species of scaly insect that feeds on various cacti. This is the aluminum lake of the coloring agent cochineal.

effects: may cause allergic reactions and anaphylactic shock in some people.

sodium copper chlorophyllin (chlorophyll): a semi synthetic misxture of water soluble sodium copper salts derived from cholorophyll. The green coloring matter in plants. Chlorophyllin BANNED by the FDA.

effects: Chlorophyll and chlorophyllin are able to form tight molecular complexes with certain chemicals known or suspected to cause cancer, including polyaromatic hydrocarbons found in tobacco smoke, some heterocyclic amines found in cooked meat.

D&C colors: abbreviation for drug and cosmetic. Colors can only be used in drugs and cosmetics not food. But remember some lip sticks and chapstick goes in your mouth.

effects: be careful about what colors and pigments you are consuming. Many colors are not approved by the FDA.

FD&C colors: abbreviation for food, drug and cosmetics. Colors can be used in foods, drugs and cosmetics.

effects: another type of coloring that you must be carful of. D&C Red No. 40 has been banned for human use in the USA. FD&C Red No. 3 has been known to cause allergic reactions, thyroid tumors and chromosomal damage. FD&C Yellow No. 5 cased allergic reactions, chromosomal damage, lymphocytic and thyroid tumors. Aluminum lake color D&C Red No. 3, 4 or 6 are also highly suspect.

iron oxides: varying in color from red to brown, black to orange or yellow, depending on the degree of water added and purity.

effects: iron oxides contain nickel and a large percentage of the population tested is allergic to nickel.

titanium dioxide: a tinting powder with white pigment used in bath powders, nail whites and many other personal care products. Also used as a nonchemical SPF.

effects: in high concentrations the dust may cause lung damage.

ultramarine: colorings permanently listed for external use only. Composed of complex sodium aluminum sulfosilicated with the proportions of each element verying in each color.

effects: none known

zinc oxides: a creamy white oinment used in baby powder, antiperspirants, foundation and more products. Used to protect skin from sun.

effects: generally harmless when used in cosmetics. It is relatively nonallergenic.