Natural Surfactants

Surfactants lower water's surface tension, permitting it to spread out and penetrate more easily. There are four major categories: anionic, nonionic, cationic, and amphoteric. All referring to the electrical charge that it carries.

Surfactants are certain substances (soaps) that clean the surface of liquids and have the property of being attracted to both water and oil. Many have a negative charge and are created with unnatural petrochemical plastics to prevent static electricity. Surfactants are commonly used in personal-care products to increase cleansing performance and to create pleasing foam. However, surfactants can also damage the skin by removing skin lipids and causing coenocytes to swell, resulting in increased skin roughness and trans epidermal water loss. Damaging effects of surfactants on skin manifest themselves as dryness, roughness, scaling, and redness. There are almost 2,000 different surfactants available to the cosmetic formulator

Natural soaps are surfactants and are made from a combination of vegetable oils. Plant saponins are high in natural surfactants. Soaps, however, must be made under carefully controlled conditions and are not created in nature, making them technically synthetic through the process of crafting them. However, vegetable oils and plant saponins make them more natural than their detergent based counterparts. Some plants have parts that are high in substances that are natural surfactants, such as soap bark, soap berry, soapwort, yucca and others. Most products that contain these saponins contain quantities that are far too small to have any cleaning effect.

almond | cocoa butter | coconut oil | hemp seed | jojoba | olive | palm
safflower | shea nut | sunflower | soap bark | soap berry | soapwort | yucca

almond: almonds come from the fruit of an almond tree and are native to western Asia. The fruit is classified as a drupe (same as peach or plum), the almond is its seed. Two types of products are produced from sweet and bitter almonds; fixed oil and volatile oil. Fixed oil is called almond oil, expressed almond oil, or sweet almond oil, obtained by pressing the kernels. The volatile oil is called bitter almond oil, obtained by steam distillation. Used for fragrances, chapped hands, lotions, suntan gels, makeup, skin cleansing, creams, and ointment base. Promotes spreadability in creams, lotions, and bath oils.

benefits: provides an elegant skin feel. Helps the skin to balance water loss and absorption of moisture. It is further a great moisturizer, suitable for all skin types, helps relieve irritation, inflammation and itching. and is easily absorbed absorbed through skin. The essential oil is nonirritating and non sensitizing to the skin. Bitter almond oil has antiseptic, anesthetic, and antipasmodic properties.

effects: people can have allergic reactions to almond oil.

cocoa butter: an evergreen tree native to West Africa, Venezuela, Central America, and other countries. Part used is the seed which are commonly called cacao or cocoa beans. Cacao is generally used to describe the crude materials, while cocoa is used to describe the processed products. Three types of ingredients are produced from cacao seeds: cocoa powder, cocoa butter, and cocoa extracts. Cocoa butter is produced by expeller pressing and solvent extraction. The butter contains triglycerides of fatty acids. Used in skin softener, skin protectant creams, lotions, lipsticks, and soaps.

benefits: softens and lubricates the skin. Containing natural antioxidants that prevent rancidity and give it a storage life of two to five years, making it a good choice for non-food products. It is one of the most stable, highly concentrated natural fats known, and melts at body temperature so that it is readily absorbed into the skin. Cocoa butter is often recommended for treatment of skin conditions such as eczema and dermatitis.

effects: may cause allergic reactions.

coconut oil: a grouping of short-chain fatty acids bonded with glycerin and expressed from coconut kernels. Used in soaps, ointments, massage creams, sunscreen formulas, shampoos, shaving lathers, cuticle removers, and creams. Lathers readily and is a fine skin cleanser. Stable when exposed to air.

benefits: an excellent skin moisturizer. Also help in healing Keratosis pilaris by moisturizing the affected area.

effects: may cause allergic reactions in some people.

hemp seed: the oil from a hemp seed is cold-pressed with a nutty, grassy flavor. Hemp seed oil is very high in essential fatty acids. Used in soaps, shampoos, and detergents. Grown and processed in Canada and South Africa, pressed in a light and oxygen free environment and nitrogen capped.

benefits: has anti microbial properties. Also contains the natural anti-oxidant vitamin E and sterols which blocks cholesterol absorption. Its high nutritional value is due to the ratio 3:1 of omega-6 to omega-3 essential fatty acids which is the perfect balance for the human body. Because its EFA profile so closely resembles the skin's natural lipids, Hemp Seed Oil instantly counteracts the effects of degreasing and dehydration, conditions that produce dry skin.

jojoba: an evergreen abundant in Arizona, southern California, Sonora, and Baja California. Part used is the seed obtained by expression or solvent extraction. Upon expression the seeds yield a liquid wax. Reduces trans epidermal water loss without completely blocking the transportation of water vapor and gases. Gives products excellent spreadability and lubricity. A naturally occurring ester. Used in hair products, soaps, natural perfume base, and a base for aromatherapy blends.

benefits: provides the skin with suppleness and softness. Helps to reduce wrinkles and stretch marks, lightens and heals scars, long shelf life, dissolves clogged pores and returns skin to natural pH balance. Jojoba is highly stable and does not oxidize or become rancid after long periods of time.

olive: a carrier oil with excellent lubricity, pale color, and low odor. Used in lipstick, nail polish removers, shampoos, soaps, face powders, and massage oils. Obtained from ripe olives.

benefits: good moisturizer for skin, helps the synthesis of substances like collagen, elastin, proteoglycans and glycoproteins.

palm: derived from the fruit or seed of the palm tree. Used as a stabilizer in soaps, creams, lotions, makeup, and decorative cosmetics. Natural vitamin E exists in eight different forms or isomers, no other natural source contains this much vitamin E.

benefits: produces a hard bar of soap that lasts long and saponifies easily.

safflower: expeller pressed from the safflower seed. Used in massage oils, soaps, lotions, and hair care.

benefits: considered a great skin hydrator.

shea nut: the natural fat obtained from the fruit of the karite tree. Used in moisturizers, sun tan gels and creams, cleansing products, conditioners, and lipsticks. Protects skin from dehydration and other climatic influences.

benefits: known as an anti-inflammatory agent and alleviates skin dryness, soothes burns, effective in treating dermatitis and eczema, and promotes elasticity in skin.

sunflower: a combustible, pale-yellow, semidrying oil with a pleasant scent, expressed from the seeds of the common sunflower containing 30% of the oil and is commonly used as a carrier oil offering smoothing properties. A good alternative for massage products this oil is easily absorbed into the skin. Great stability and emolliency it can be used as a base for many products. Sunflower oil contains vitamins A, D and mostly Vitamin E. Used in soaps, massage products.

benefits: stable, softens and moisturizes skin. High in the essential vitamin E and low in saturated fat and may also provide a protective barrier that resists infection.

soap bark: an evergreen native to Chile, Bolivia, and Peru. The inner bark is reduced to a powder and used as soap due to its ability to lather with water. Used in soaps.

benefits: contain no alkali and are considered mild and beneficial for cleansing purposes.

soap berry: a small shrub that bears red berries, found in North America.

benefits: credited with cleansing and antiseptic properties, its also known for its soothing properties.

soapwort: a common perennial plant. Its constituents include flavonoids and vitamin C. Made primarily from the roots, though the leaves and stems can be used as well.

benefits: credited with cleansing properties due to its saponin content. It is also said to be soothing to the skin and to relieve itching. Used to treat acne, psoriasis, and eczema.

yucca: an evergreen tree native to southwestern United States. Parts used are the leaves which a solid extract is prepared by hot water extraction. Used to treat arthritic conditions and in shampoos and cleansers.

benefits: increase cell growth and is an anti-irritant.